Bright young things: six of the best new jewellery designers

A love of fabulous jewels clearly runs in the genes for siblings Michael and Jessica Busiashvili, third-generation jewellers who grew up “obsessed by the craftsmanship, quality and charm” of the antique pieces in their grandmother’s Los Angeles jewellery store, Caspi’s. Having graduated from the Gemological Institute of America, Jessica — a lifelong fan of “skateboarders’ wallet chains, Tiffany’s Diamonds by the Yard and tennis bracelets” — invented a new chain design using hourglass-shaped links, which, at Michael’s insistence, was patented in 2020.
Two years later the Ourglass bracelet was launched, beginning the brand’s quest “to make dimensional jewellery that moves”. In Ox’s latest collection, Time Out, the hourglass forms are adorned with reverse-set diamonds. “These chains have the same fluid movement but a different overall effect,” Jessica explains. “I hope it proves to be a timeless heirloom that is passed down for centuries.” Ourglass bracelet in yellow gold and diamonds, POA; ox-ny.com
It’s not every day that a first lady is pictured wearing your jewellery, but in the case of Solo for Diamonds, the Ukrainian lab-grown gemstone brand founded by Julia Kusher, above, the yellow and blue diamond Solo rings sported by Olena Zelenska are also a mark of patriotic defiance in Ukraine’s ongoing war with Russia. The brand uses lab-grown stones from the Alkor-D factory in Kyiv that Kusher established in 2015 and now produces some of the largest man-made diamonds in the world using solar power. Kusher sets them in a patented organic and biodegradable resin so that the gems seem to “float” above the skin.
Only a few weeks after Ukraine was attacked, the Alkor-D factory reopened (with a new bomb shelter and renegotiated export routes) to keep workers employed and to bolster the local economy. Last year Kusher expanded her offering to include diamonds grown from carbon taken from the ashes of loved ones, including pets. Ring in bio resin with fancy yellow diamond, POA; solofordiamonds.com.ua
“My work is an extension of myself, my feelings, my energy,” says the Lebanese designer Joelle Kharrat, who pivoted away from a career in the cosmetics industry in 2022 to craft totemic pendants. Now her tactile, modular stacks of diamond-studded 18-carat gold pieces — which nod to the abstract sculptures of the trailblazing Lebanese artist Saloua Raouda Choucair — are all handmade in Kharrat’s Beirut workshop, “a celebration of the Lebanese craftsmen’s talent, creativity and meticulous work”, she says.
Inspiration also comes from the four elements. Glossy natural wood (representing earth), mother of pearl (water), yellow gold (air) or pink opal (fire) can be added to each totem stack. Totem pendant in gold, mother of pearl and rainbow sapphires, £5,336; joellekharrat.com
The brainchild of the Brighton-born designer Louie Cresswell, Ouie rethinks functional hardware — the toggle on a hoodie, the wire loop of a keychain — as covetable, sculptural jewels. Cresswell, a former luxury fashion specialist, founded his brand in 2019 after becoming frustrated with the plastic cord stoppers on a hoodie he was trying to design and experimented with crafting a more permanent version for himself out of precious metal. “This simple mechanism became my obsession,” he says, adding that a long-held fascination with “things that tick and click” fuels his inspiration.
His latest collection, Cages, is his first to feature gemstones such as iolite, Brazilian emeralds and citrines, which are set behind a sterling silver or gold mesh in chunky signet rings and pendants — all pieces Cresswell likes to wear himself. “The only muse I have in mind when I’m designing is me. If I don’t want to wear it, I’m not making it,” he says. Keylo necklace in silver and yellow gold, £100,000; ouie.co.uk
The Hong Kong-based jeweller Melinda Zeman describes Boochier, the fine jewellery brand she founded in 2019, as “bold and playful yet sophisticated”. Nostalgia looms large over Zeman’s design process — Boochier’s debut collection, Ties, is reminiscent of childhood shoelaces (albeit elegantly refashioned in 18-carat recycled gold and white diamonds), while the shimmering coils of the Slinkee range take their cue from the famous toy and are set with polished “gumballs” of chrysoprase, turquoise or lapis lazuli.
The latest line, Arcade, was inspired by the game Tetris and features blocks of gemstone baguettes. “I love the idea of all the pieces seeming different yet somehow managing to fit together. I try to apply that philosophy to life in general,” Zeman says. “There are few things as sentimental as jewellery, and I want to be able to connect to that in a vibrant and colourful way.” Slinkee Icon bangle in yellow gold and diamond, £10,580; boochier.com
Lia Lam’s clever creations, which are designed to be admired from every angle, are inspired by her passion for modernist architecture, photography and, crucially, dance, where every gesture is considered. Having trained with goldsmiths in Rome and Paris, the London-based designer only debuted her eponymous brand in 2023, but her diamond and gemstone-topped pieces — such as the geometric 100% ring and travel-inspired Passepartout collection — have already won her plaudits, including emerging jewellery brand of the year in the UK.
“My work is inspired by human connection. Empathy and life experience are essential qualities of a bespoke jewellery designer,” she says. Her next collection celebrates children’s “unrestricted freedom to create” and is set to launch after her “most rewarding” project so far — her first baby. 100% ring in yellow gold and diamonds, POA; lialam.com